Tuesday, August 01, 2006

Harvest's Dragon Vetch

I have been encouraging this spring wild flower to inter-grow in my beds and borders for a number of years. It’s not invasive, it’s a great nitrogen fixer, it produces a good amount of organic matter, it’s easy to pull or cut, and it is cheerful and attractive.

This year I noticed something totally new about the Dragon Vetch growing in my yard. The pods no longer pop flinging the seed far and wide as soon as they are ripe. In fact on the wreath pictured only one pod has popped, even though we have been in triple digits for the better part of a week.


In the book, “The Emergence of Agriculture,” by Bruce D. Smith, the author discusses how one of the first morphological changes plants make on the road from wild to cultivated - is losing the ability to disperse seed. I am pretty dang excited to be seeing that exact thing happening in my yard.

Since I have been collecting the seeds and then tossing them where I want to grow – I have, really without even thinking about it, been selecting for pods that don’t pop. Those non-popping pods' seeds get to grow places I want them, and the seeds from pods that pop are more likely to end up getting mowed or weeded out. So, now I have these fabulous black pods for wreathes and dry arrangements . . . (I have another pic of the whole wreathe, and for some reason Blogger won't let me up load it. If you really want to see it leave me a comment and I will up load it another day . . .)

Bruce Smith, in the afore mentioned book, states that the next morphological change found in early cultivated plants is enlarged seeds. So, I collected a bunch of the pods for seeds and I think I will hand select out the larger seeds, just to see what happens. If you would like to grow some of my Dragon Vetch for your projects add it to your list of free seeds to request from me this fall.

Search my blog for “free seeds” and stay tuned to find out what all is being offered. To order your free seeds you will need to send me two stamps, a self addressed mailing label, and small labled zip-lock bags for each type of seed you would like. There is a limit of ten varieties per request. Once you get your list together, e-mail me to make sure that the seeds are still in stock. I can’t garentee that I won’t run out before I get your request – but at least you will have a better idea. e-mail: harvest95546@yahoo.com And seeds do not do well when shipped in the heat of summer – but if you send your request in the summer I will send them out as soon as I can.

For more information on the book: “The Emergence of Agriculture,” see: http://harvestsgardeningsecrets.blogspot.com/2006/01/seedy-perspective.html

Oh, and by the way, I have started another blog for a piece of fiction I am working on. You can read the chapters as I draft them:
http://360.yahoo.com/harvest95546 (Look for the section called “Blog.”) Now that I have two main writing projects, I may only post here once a week or so . . .


Thanks,

Harvest

Tuesday, July 25, 2006

Water Wisely

Some of my fondest childhood memories are of visiting with gardeners as they watered their plants. The sound of trickling water accompanied us as they tended prized flowers, herbs, and vegetables. There is something soothing about the subtle melody of trickling water. For me that sound is intrinsically bound with the idea of being in the moment, of stewardship, of meditative attention. It is a sound I seek, in nature near burbling creeks, in my own garden as an escape from other more stressful parts of life, and in the company of other gardeners.

One gardening neighbor from when I was about 12, taught me something valuable about water, plants, and attention. It was a very concise lesson but one I will never forget. Opal was an elderly disabled woman who barely got around with her walker and who could barely hang on to the hose with her gnarled hands. One day I suggested that it might be easier for her to do the watering with a sprinkler. And she told me that easier was not always better.

The thing about sprinklers, according to Opal, was that you could forget about them and over water your plants. The soil, the plant roots, and the earthworms all need air. Too much water was just as harmful as too little. “Besides,” she went on, “I like to pay attention to my plants, and I think they like it too. When I water by hand I notice all kinds of things, I really get to know my plants. I can see if they are being bothered by pests, if they are crowding each other, if their mulch is thick enough. It makes me a better gardener, besides, I just like spending this time with them.”

Thirty-eight years later, I still find attentive time in the garden soothing, and like Opal, I think my plants like the attention too. However, watering by hand doesn’t work well for everyone, for every plant, or for every type of soil. The important thing is to pay attention to your plants, whatever your watering strategy. Here are a few tips that will keep your garden in tip top shape and keep your water bill down.

Layer your garden or landscape. Having a mix of tall, medium, and low growing plants actually reduces evaporation and heat stress. Reducing heat stress reduces plants needs for water, and it makes things cooler for the gardener too!

Cover all bare soil. Bare soil heats up quickly – causing heat stress to plants. Moisture rapidly evaporates from bare soil increasing need for irrigation. Mulch, ground covers, cover crops, and mown or cropped weeds will all reduce your plants need for supplemental water. If you missed the article on organic matter visit: http://harvestsgardeningsecrets.blogspot.com and search on “Nurture Your Soil.”

Resist the urge to make the soil completely level. Level soil actually encourages run off. In nature, soils’ surface irregularities slow the movement of water over the grounds’ surface enabling more water to sink in and less to run off. Watering basins, raised rows, furrows, and just plain uneven ground will reduce run off, erosion, and wasted water.

Water early or late, and only if needed. Evaporation is much slower in the cooler parts of the day, so more of your water will actually reach the plants roots. Also, some tender plants can be burned when the suns rays are magnified by water droplets resting on their leaves. Try to ignore squash or melon plants that look droopy in the middle of the day when you know the soil is moist. They will bounce back when the sun goes behind the mountain.

Apply water gently near the base of your plants, if possible. If you must use sprinklers try to do so in the early parts of the day. Plants that have moisture on their leaves overnight are sometimes subject to mildew and disease. Sprinklers are the least water efficient way to irrigate. Much of the water you are paying for escapes into the air as mist. When your sprinklers where out, consider investing in a soaker hose or two.

Trees and shrubs may need deep watered once a month. If your prized specimens’ leaves begin to brown prematurely, or if your favorite tree or shrub looks wilted even in the early morning hours it may need a deep drink. Most plants sink their roots into the ground at least as deep as they are tall. Occasionally leaving the hose on a very slow drip and moving it every few hours may save trees and shrubs from death by drought.

Set your mower blades on the highest setting you can stand, and let the thatch build up. Longer grass actually needs less water than short cropped grass. Longer grass does a better job of shading the soil, there by reducing evaporation and heat stress to the grass and other nearby plants. And the thatch that builds up acts as a mulch, conserving moisture and shading the soil. If you must remove the thatch, do it in the fall.

Choose drought tolerant and native plants when possible, and do any major planting in the fall. Plants always need more water while getting established. Let Mother Nature supply that water whenever possible. Here is a source of more information on drought tolerant plants: http://www.uri.edu/ce/factsheets/sheets/droughttolerant.html

Consider growing a “dry garden.” Many Native vegetables are suited to dry gardening. Most must be planted during the spring rains so they can sink their roots down into the water table before summer sets in. In the American southwest there are varieties of corn, melons, squash, and other more exotic traditional foods that are grown without any irrigation. If you would like to experiment with dry gardening you can find more information and order seeds from Native Seeds/ SEARCH: http://www.nativeseeds.org/v2/default.php

Before doing any major landscape renovation you might want to get some information on the following practices to reduce water use:
Drip irrigation: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drip_irrigation
Permaculture: http://www.permacultureactivist.net/
Xerascaping http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/B1073.htm
Most libraries have public use computers and staff that can help folks with little Internet experience (including Hoopa). If you are not comfortable with computers you can ask for book recommendations at your local bookstore or library.

Next week we will be talking about your friends and mine, the dastardly aphids. Until then you can probably find me out in the garden, Digging the Dirt.

Copyright 2006 Harvest McCampbell, from my column "Digging the Dirt," published in The Hoopa Valley People Newspaper, July 11, 2006. Posted here with permission.

Friday, July 21, 2006

Harvest’s Pastel Kale

I love surprises!


I am not one of those gardeners that carefully isolates heirloom varieties to protect their special genetic traits. Quite the contrary. I embrace random genetic exchange of the natural kind. When the birds and the bees move genetic material around via the pollen that plants provide for that purpose, I celebrate. And sometimes the plants celebrate too.




This lovely kale is a random cross between Red Russian Kale and Ornamental Kale. I have two plants growing right now – and I am so impressed that I started more seedlings. Not only is it beautiful, it is tasty, tender, and mild. Mild enough to enjoy raw in salads. The plants are fairly resistant to cabbage moths. No entirely, but not getting pounded the way some of my other brassicas are. They are also fairly resistant to aphids. The more colorful one of the two plants a little less so than the other. But the more colorful one is also more robust. It is about 3 feet high with multiple open heads. And it is so lovely passersby will distract me from the tasks at hand to find out what the heck it is and where they can get some . . .


I do have a very few seeds, which I would be willing to share with someone who is actively breeding kale. (I anticipate having plenty of seed to share after these plants flower and set seed – either this fall or mid summer next year.) If you are working on breeding kale please send me an e-mail with a link to your web site, and I will be happy to share a few seeds. Everyone else will have to be patient – but, you can always encourage surprises in your own garden . . .

And I will definitely have free seeds of Red Russian Kale available this fall. I saved seeds from plants that were aphid resistant. And I may save some more from the plant that is showing no signs of dieing after flowering and setting seed. Stay tuned – I will post a notice here when the weather cools off – shipping seed in the heat of summer can have a bad effect on their viability.

Here is some more info on the Red Russian Kale:
http://harvestsgardeningsecrets.blogspot.com/2006/02/kindly-kale.html