Showing posts with label nutrient cycle. Show all posts
Showing posts with label nutrient cycle. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 30, 2014

I've Got Worms!

Here they are, fresh out of their shipping package and on their way to their new home!


One of the first things I did upon moving in to my new apartment was to save one of my smaller moving boxes to start a little worm bin.  I choose a box that a regular plastic grocery bag will easily line.  I filled the bag/box about 1/3 full of organic potting soil, and then I collected a handful of clay and loam rich soil to add to the potting soil.  (That was a gift from a gopher who makes his home along the local river.)

Worms need some fine mineral soil--they ingest it and it helps their digestion.  The clay particles they ingest also supper-charge the worm castings.  It seems that the clay-humus combination excreted by worms provides many plants with exactly what they need as far as nutrition is concerned, and also as far as the delivery method.  Clay also contains cation exchange sites--which hold on to the nutrients until the microorganisms involved with the soil nutrient cycle present them with something in exchange.

There are microorganisms in the soil whose sole business is to trade nutrients they obtain from cation exchange sites with plant root hairs.  What they get in the bargain are the carbohydrates that fuel their lives.  The only source of carbohydrates, of course, are plants.  They make them from sunlight and water using nutrients they exchange with microorganism in their root hairs.

In most natural environments here in North America, this all proceeds without the help of earthworms.  There are very few earthworms indigenous to North America and they inhabit very small environmental niches.  All most all the worms we encounter here were originally from Europe. And in fact, worms are not always a welcome part of natural environments. They can disrupt indigenous soil nutrient cycles and in some areas this is threatening native plant species and the organisms that depend on them.  Just something to think about before you toss out worms leftover from fishing or before you introduce worms to your garden if you live adjacent to natural areas that do not already harbor earthworms. 

Soil nutrient cycles can do what they need to do without earthworms, but where appropriate, worms supper-charge the process!  They do their best work right in the soil of your garden, rather than in a worm bin or box.  If you haven't already, check out my article on gardening with worms here: 
Let Worms do Your Work!   You might also want to check out my related photo album on facebook: 
The Compost Hole Method.

Alas,  having recently moved into an apartment, I am no longer in a position to bury my compostables on a regular basis. Not to worry though, I do have a community garden plot in the next town, I will still be gardening and tending soil!  The only worms available locally  are night crawlers, which I really enjoy in the garden, but I have never raised them in a box before, and I wanted to stick with something familiar.  So I ordered 1/2 pound of red compost worms on-line. 

Before they arrived I made sure that their organic potting-soil-bedding was evenly moist, but not soggy.  Using a soil thermometer, I found a good spot for them in the apartment.  Sixty degrees Fahrenheit up to the high seventies is ideal.  Colder and they become sluggish, hotter and they suffer.  I found the perfect spot in my water heater closet!  Next I buried about a pint of kitchen waste in the potting soil and waited for my worms to arrive.  

Most people use shredded paper for worm bedding, and I do add some paper to my worm boxes if they start getting too damp.  However, I have found that my worms are happier, healthier, and more vigorous if their bedding is mostly chemical free natural materials, like organic potting soil and fallen leaves.  All paper has been through chemical processes and retains traces of these chemicals.  I have seen with my own eyes the difference between raising worms on paper bedding and on natural bedding.  I will stick with using a preponderance of natural material.

My current worms take about a week and a half to processes about a half a weeks worth of my kitchen waste.  I figure that eventually I will want about four times as many worms.  Living in a small apartment, this will take some creativity on my part . . .  but I am sure it can be done!

A word about smells.  A properly managed, maintained, and cared for worm box or bin has hardly any smell at all.  If I put my nose right down in the box, it has a very slight forest earth kind of scent.  If your worm box smells unpleasant, it may be too moist, too hot or cold, you may need a higher ratio of bedding to kitchen scraps, or you may need more worms or less scraps.  It is a learning process.  However there are lots of books and blogs and articles devoted to indoor "vermiposting."   Vermiposting is what composting with worms is called! Almost anyone can use this technique to recycle kitchen waste into supper-charged soil!

If you would like to leave tips, ask questions, or share useful web sites or books, please feel free to leave a comment.  I don't think Blogger will let you put a URL in comments, but you can give the names of useful websites and we can search them out!





Thursday, September 27, 2012

Water Rights, Nutrient Cycles, & Genocide



The idea that we can pass laws that will provide for adequate clean water for all (or even just for Californians) without limiting population and reproduction, without controlling development and industry, and without consideration for environments and nutrient cycles is to completely ignore where water comes from.  Water does not magically appear at your faucet when you turn it on.  There is no magic that a law can induce that will cause facets and water to appear everywhere people live in perpetuity.  Wells, in fact, do run dry.

That we have fresh water anywhere at all is the result of complex climate and environmental interactions.  When we remove water from the natural systems where we find it, we often change those systems, sometimes irrevocably.  Many of the aquifers (underground sources of water) that our nation depends on-- for food production and for household and industrial uses, are considered fossil water sources.  The water reached those underground aquifers over the millennia, by slow drop by drop percolation through soil and rocks.  In many cases, when we have finally pumped those aquifers dry, which will most likely happen in our lifetimes, the water will not be replenished in time to save our lives.

Meanwhile every time we build on the land or cover it with asphalt, concrete, plastic, or other impermeable surfaces, we increase run off and decrease the percolation of water into our aquifers.   Leveling land, and removing weeds, brush, and other vegetation also increases run off.  Uneven soil surfaces and vegetation slow movement of water and increase percolation.  But of course, this important issue of water percolation is not in our minds; as long as we are thinking magically about water, faucets, and laws.   The irrevocable change that we create by over pumping aquifers, is that the pore spaces in the rock and soil often collapse when the water is removed, permanently reducing the water storage capacity of the aquifer.  All of this leads to increased flooding, by the way.  Flooding is something that we tend to blame on the weather instead of on our own actions.

Removing surface water from rivers and streams and pumping it to far distant landscapes also has consequences for all of us.  I am going to use, for example, the water shed of the Klamath Trinity area of Northern California, because it is the one that I understand the most.  Many diversions are made from the Klamath and Trinity Rivers, some for local agriculture, and some fairly elaborate diversions that transfer water to Southern California for agriculture, household, and industrial use.

While the effects on the local water shed are intense, and a few of them will be briefly discussed  shortly, moving that water to other environments has a huge impact on those environments as well.  Southern California agriculture and development (which is dependent on imported water) has endangered many species that once thrived in the natural dry land environment; and it has contributed to loss of territory for the Indigenous Peoples of Southern California, including loss of hunting and gathering areas and Sacred Sites.  Further, dryland soils are often very fragile, top soil loss due to irrigation dependant agriculture has been extensive—through plowing and other cultivation, as well as mismanagement of land.  Over watering and subsequent evaporation has brought toxic levels of subsoil minerals, which are common in dryland areas, up into the top soil through osmotic action. Over use of agriculture chemicals, which never leach from these dryland soils, has produced other areas of high toxicity.  We see acres and acres of land removed from production—even of native species.  This dryland topsoil toxicity is very difficult, if not impossible to remediate.

Back up in the Trinity Alps, where a goodly portion of this transported water originated, we find verdant forests that produce much of the oxygen we need to breathe, as well as the raw materials for wood and paper products. The trees, native plants, animals, and the people—both Indigenous and settler communities—depend on a complex nutrient cycle that is directly imperiled by water diversions.  And, since we all need to breathe, we are in turn all equally imperiled by these water diversions.

The Klamath Trinity area is now near the southern edge of the Northern Pacific Rain Forest, which used to extend south, all the way through the San Francisco Bay Area.  Tree cutting and water diversions, directly and sometimes indirectly, have extensively changed the environment of what used to be rain forest, and this process is on-going.   

When the ample rains percolate through the forests, naturally occurring nutrients dissolve.  They are carried into streams and creeks, from there to the rivers, and eventually the nutrients and the water heads out to sea. There the nutrients (in low, but adequate amounts) nurture healthy algae and phytoplankton, which in turn are fed on by zooplankton.  The larval stages of many marine creatures feed on the zooplankton, which in turn feed small fish and other free swimming creatures.  Most important to our rain forests--are the salmon, the eels, and the sturgeon--which live much of their lives in the ocean, collecting the nutrients leached from the rainforest, only to return it to the land and release those nutrients at the ends of their lives.  

Fish need water, the nutrient cycle needs fish.  Without the fish, many creatures including bears, foxes, coyotes, and coyotes, as well as the magnificent endangered California condors and the endangered endemic fishers would all suffer, and some might not survive.  The rest of us would gradually see a decline in the productivity of the forests, because of lack of nutrient cycling.  Never mind the effect on the paper and wood industries, the loss of oxygen production would be the main tragedy.  As the trees declined and died, they would become more fire prone, further contributing to oxygen declines and desertification.  

Trees have this wonderful cooling effect on the earth.  They absorb heat and protect and build top soil.  When trees are removed and the soil is bared, top soil degrades quickly, the ground heats up, that heat begins to be reflected back up into the air, causing up-drafts.  Those up-drafts, when they become large enough, create high pressure areas—which in turn effect weather and reduce precipitation, they reduce rain.  A desert is born where a rain forest once lived.  We human beings have created these deserts over and over again all over the planet, and we just don’t seem to be done yet.  Water diversions cause irrevocable changes to environments.

Meanwhile, the Indigenous People of the Klamath Trinity water shed still depend on salmon for their subsistence.  Salmon populations have already been decimated and are in further peril by the current and on-going water diversions.  The People are already suffering health consequences of the lack of adequate amounts of salmon in the diet, which supplies protein, vitamins, healthy essential fatty acids, and minerals.  While this is a watershed wide issue, and it repeats itself in many of the watersheds of the Pacific North West, for one tribe, the Karuk, the health consequences have been documented:  http://ejcw.org/documents/Kari%20Norgaard%20Karuk%20Altered%20Diet%20Nov2005.pdf

Water diversions directly affect Indigenous People.  Water diversions affect access to Sacred Sites, one example that is close to home and currently in the minds of many people is Winnemem Wintu Tribe with their homelands having been flooded by the Shasta Dam, one of their last remaining Sacred Sites is scheduled to disappear under the waters if a proposed increase in the amount of water impounded is approved.  Another example right here in California comes to us from the Elem people, when the dam at Cache Creek was completed, which raised Clear Lakes waters enough to turn part of their land into an island—without their consent or permission that island was privatized and sold.  The current owners have forbidden Tribal Members any access to Sacred Sites on the island for the first time in the Tribes History. The land they have left has been contaminated by the mine tailings from the Sulfur Bank mercury mine. In both cases, one of the purposes of the dams in question is to supply year around water for diversions to municipal, agricultural, and industrial users.  Water diversions directly affect Indigenous People.

Water diversions affect Indigenous People’s ability to hunt and gather and to follow their cultures, not only as land is inundated, but also as other land dries up because of water diversions, as nutrient cycles are disrupted, and as land is taken up into agriculture, industry, and development.  All the natural environments lost through these processes once supported endemic and useful plants and animals—and those plants and animals supported Indigenous People. Water diversion also directly effects Indigenous People’s ability to fish, as the fish are dependent on natural water cycles.  Water diversion is genocide.  Pure and simple. Genocide.

Many people are lauding Governor Brown’s recent signing of the Human Right to Water Bill. http://www.inlandvalleynews.com/2012/09/26/ca-governor-brown-signs-human-right-to-water/  But the only rights to water mentioned in this bill are those for drinking, cooking, and sanitary purposes. There is nothing in the bill that protects natural environments or Indigenous People’s rights to natural water cycles.  I agree in spirit with the idea that we all should have access to safe, clean, affordable water for drinking, cooking, and sanitary purposes. However, water, as we have seen here, is a very complex issue.  Faucets do not magically produce clean water.  And with Governor Brown’s pet water diversion project looming in our future—I am concerned that this bill will be used directly against water rich environments and Indigenous People.

We need to be thinking in terms of sustainable populations, sustainable communities, sustainable industry, sustainable environments, and sustainable water cycles.  We need to rethink where we live and work--in ways that include naturally occurring water cycles and what those water cycles can support in terms of sustainable populations and sustainable industry.  This is a tall order, I know, but to do otherwise is to delude ourselves that we can pass a law and faucets full of clean water will magically appear where ever people live—without ultimately causing genocide, environmental destruction, and our own demise.

Delusion, in this case, is the art of believing that history won’t repeat itself; but it does, over and over again.  The bookCollapse: How Societies Choose to Fail or Succeed,” by Jared M. Diamond, gives many examples of societies based on unsustainable practices which ultimately failed.  It provides much food for thought as well. Please educate yourself on the issues we are facing and join the movement for change.  We all need to be conserving as much water as we can every day.

This is not just about Indigenous People, of course. That, which threatens Indigenous People, threatens every single one of us.  Water is not the only issue we must face and solve in our lifetimes.  Oxygen depletion is a huge looming issue that we must also face head on.  For more on the threats to our oxygen supply, which is eluded to in the article please see: CarbonProduction = Oxygen Consumption (PS Oxygen supplies are limited.)


Thank you so much for your time and attention.  Your questions and comments are always welcome!


Copyright 2012, Harvest McCampbell, all rights reserved.  Please feel free to post a link or to share using the buttons below.  Please contact me before publishing of reposting. 

Friday, October 09, 2009

Compost Hole Method and the possibility of rats

A friend who I introduced to the compost hole method of gardening recently asked about the possibility of it attracting rats. What follows is my answer.

As long as you have at least four inches of soil over the compostables, you shouldn't have a problem with rats. Put anything that actually smells like food in the very bottom of the hole, cover with a little dirt, then throw in the scraps that haven't been cooked, and cover with dirt. An open pile is more likely to attract rats, and those compost bin thingies are a whole other issue in themselves. If you find that you are attracting rats, even with your compost covered with four inches of dirt—you probably have a rat overpopulation problem and the poor things are dang hungry. If you have a rat problem, it is useful to reflect on natural nutrient cycles and the rats place in the food web. In nature, no nutrient is allowed to go to waste. The buildup of toxins that would happen in the environment by organic matters piling up and rotting is eliminated by creatures like rats. It is their job to clean up anything in excess, anything that might rot. However, all animals, unless they are kept in check by a predator, will reproduce to the limit of the food supply—and beyond. Basically, the rats, which may not have appropriate predators in urban environments, will keep reproducing until they begin starving. In the mean time, they are going to be eating everything that they can see or smell. If rats are digging up your compost, they are very hungry. It might be time to get a big cat, a rat terrier, or some native snakes. You need predators to keep the ecosystem in balance.

Now, about those compost bin thingies. Most commercial compost bins really are just a place to keep rotting vegetable matter. They usually aren't big enough to really get hot and truly compost, and most people just throw a bunch of wet food waste in there anyway. To truly make compost, you need a balanced combination of dry matter and wet matter—so material isn’t sodden, and a balanced ratio of carbonaceous matter (about 60%) to nitrogen rich matter (about 40%). You also need to build the pile carefully, so there is plenty of air circulation within the pile. The carefully thought out inclusion of sticks, cardboard, shredded paper, and other porous material is necessary to the healthy functioning of a compost pile. The pile needs to be about four feet by four feet, and eventually four feet high, and it needs to be carefully managed for moisture content and air pathways. (I have a book in progress called “One Day at a Time in the Garden, a Recovery Plan for the Planet.” I will be sharing tips on tending the compost pile in that book. If you start now by reading “The Complete Compost Gardening Guide,” by Barbara Pleasant and Deborah L. Martin, Story Publishing you will be well on your way to really utilizing my tips when the book comes out. The thing I don’t find adequate about the “The Complete Compost Gardening Guide,” is that they don’t address the environmental hazards of an improperly maintained compost pile—and some of their options are clearly improper. Anyway, start with their book, use the tips here, and then read my book when it comes out. In the mean time ask questions if you have any. You will soon be an expert on making and tending a healthy compost pile. {Or skip the pile entirely and use the Compost Hole Method!})

Most people are not really making compost in their bins or piles . . . they are making sludge. This sludge, as it rots, releases methane and nitrogen into the atmosphere—both are virulent green house gasses. The sludge also leaches nitrogen into the soil and potentially into ground water where it can form toxic compounds and encourage disease causing organisms. And it can travel, with the ground water, to streams and rivers where it is a pollutant which feeds alga blooms and interferes with natural ecosystems. If that wasn’t enough, the anaerobic (without oxygen) decomposition of organic matter is known to foster potential disease casing organisms, and the resultant break down compounds of this rotting sludge can also be toxic. Composting is a good thing, just make sure that what you are doing is really making compost.

The compost hole method, not only avoids releasing nitrogen and methane into the atmosphere, avoids leaching nutrients and toxins into the soil and ground water, it gets you to plant, and therefore eat fresh from the garden, year around. (At least in the places the weather allows for that.) Gardening, instead of being an event that starts and ends, becomes tied to your life. You make compostables simply by living, then you go out to the garden and reflect on what you want to plant and where the best spot is. While you do this, you observe the life of the garden and what it needs from you—as its steward. You make mental (or actual) notes about what you need to do. Then you dig a hole-- considering the roots and nutritional needs of established plants, the light and moisture needs of what you are going to plant, as well as where the plant will best contribute to the life of the garden.

Now, you put your compostables into the hole—loosely to provide plenty of air space and habitat for worms and micro-organisms. If you can see worms or sow bugs in your pile of dirt, you carefully place them on your loose compost, and cover with an inch or two of loose dirt. Next, in a perfect world, you are going to look for some dry material to layer in with the dirt. If you have pets in the house it might be time to sweep the floors to capture shed hair, if there are dried leaves or twigs around the garden you might use them. All these things contain nutrients and structure that will add food and habitat for micro-organisms to your soil. They will create pathways for roots and worms to follow, contribute to soil tilth, and to the nutrient cycle. As you layer the dirt, loosely, with dry organic matter, break up any clumps. Mound the dirt loosely over the hole. Flatten the top, and create a tiny berm around the edges. Plant a few seeds in the center and make a plant label out of a recycled take-out cup or other container. Mark the spot with a crown of sticks to keep cats and birds from disturbing your soil. Sprinkle lightly with enough water to just moisten the surface, or wait for rain. If you choose to water, do so very sparingly. You just want to keep the surface moist enough for the seeds to germinate and begin to grow. Once the plants begin to get established, they will tell you when they need more water. Within a few weeks they will sink their roots down into the moist compost, and they will probably need very little supplemental irrigation.

When you live, garden, compost, and eat in this model, you can’t help but realize that we are all part of a nutrient cycle. Do a little reading about nutrient cycles and civilizations—say Collapse – How Societies Choose to Fail or Succeed by Jared Diamond (published by Viking) and you will begin to realize how imperiled our nutrient cycle’s are. Our lives depend on topsoil, and commercial agriculture is destroying our top soils at very alarming rates. This brings me to mention my new power point program, “Decolonizing Soil,” which takes a look at the problem, as well as solutions we can all begin applying today. (See: http://www.biodiversegardens.com/DecolonizingSoil.html )

So, I hope this answers your questions about rats and compost—as well as giving you tips on finding more information. Eventually I will be putting some of the information in this note together for a power point presentation: “Gardening with Worms, and other Soil Building Practices,” but not today. I have other projects waiting for me today, including some compost to bury!

Here are links to more of my writing on “The Compost Hole Method,” which is not the official name of what I do, but it will work for now:
http://harvestsgardeningsecrets.blogspot.com/2006/01/simple-garden-routine-useful-for-bad.html
http://harvestsgardeningsecrets.blogspot.com/2006/07/let-worms-do-your-work.html
You will find links to even more information at the second link posted above.

Photos of the “Compost Hole Method” are available here:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=124895&id=588082483&l=dc54e9c2a6
If you check out my other photo albums you will find garden shots where the plants were all grown with this method.

For direct links to the various albums see:
http://www.biodiversegardens.com/PhotoLinks

Copyright 2009 Harvest McCampbell