Ox Eye Daisy, Cheerful, Useful, and Instructive!

The ox eye daisy is a common field and roadside wild flower here in the Pacific North West.  It also makes a lovely carefree addition to garden borders, where it attracts beneficial insects and offers nectar to our very important pollinators.  

It is reported as being a European immigrant and sometimes as invasive.  However, just because a plant that is considered an alien naturalizes itself into a niche in the environment, does not mean it should be considered invasive or even unwanted.  

Before considering a plant invasive, ask yourself a few questions:

1.  Does it provide pollen and nectar or other food to important pollinators or native animals?

2. Does it provide ecosystem benefits; such as stabilizing slopes, slowing erosion, building top soil, providing animal habitat, or reducing human and domestic animal impacts to the land?

3.  Does it increase or decrease the genetic diversity of an area?

4.  Is it useful to people for food, medicine, or utility and does it grow where they can access it?

5.  Is it crowding out rare or endangered plants or animals?

Let’s apply these questions to our ox eye daisies:

1. Yes it provides nectar to pollinators and pollen to beneficial insects, as well as seeds to birds later in the season.

 2. Yes, it provides ecosystem benefits, in that it is often found growing on disturbed slopes, where it helps stabilize the soil and reduces erosion.

3. Simply by its presence it increases the genetic diversity by one, the insects and birds that depend on it may also help increase the genetic diversity of the area.

4. Yes, it is useful to people as food, medicine (see links below), and for attracting pollinators and beneficial insects to the garden and to foraging areas.

5.  Probably not, but if so, and someone is committed to tending the threatened native plants, the ox eye daisies should be weeded out with as little physical and chemical disruption to the area as possible.

 

When we really stop to think about it, many of the plants that are targeted with eradication as aliens or invasive may be better off ignored, or even embraced, used, and celebrated.  The eradication activities are often more harmful to the environment than the plants that are removed. In addition, unfortunately, known endemic plants are often targeted as 'invasive,' by people who have not done their research and make unfounded assumptions.  For more words of caution regarding being overly quick to judge and destroy plants that are considered alien, as well as a discussion about who profits from their eradication, please see:  http://www.jlhudsonseeds.net/NativesVsExotics.htm

Many plants that were once considered alien and invasive have turned out to be indigenous.  We owe this knowledge to the botanical archaeology conducted on fire pits and midden mounds, as well as cores taken on lake bed sediments.  There is no definitive list of all the plants that were here in North America before contact.  However, a truly invasive plant is often easy to recognize. A truly invasive plant quickly crowds out other plants and reduces diversity, over a season or over a number of years.  And it does it, right before your eyes.  Plants that quickly colonize soil that has been bared for any reason, such as mud or landslides, floods, or fires; even plants those plants that form near monocultures on hillsides or meadows are not necessarily invasive or alien plants.  Be sure to do your homework before you undertake or participate in any plant eradication efforts.

 

Back to our cheerful ox eyes, I’ve never done more than taste these daisies, so I am not an expert on their use or identification.  Not all daisies are edible, and some are actually insecticidal and may be toxic to people too.  Always be very sure of your identification of any unfamiliar plant, and study up on the toxic and poisonous plants in your area, so you know what to be cautions of.

Here are some links to more information on edible, medicinal, and historic uses of ox eye daisies:

Ox eye daisy, raw edible plant 

Ox eye daisy tempura recipe 

Medicinal and historical uses 

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Comments, questions, tips are always welcome.  If you find typos or broken links please leave a comment and I will fix it up as soon as I can!

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If you are interested in herbs and haven’t read my books yet, your local librarian or bookstore if they can order them for you!   More information can be found here:  https://www.goodreads.com/author/list/429832.Harvest_McCampbell

 

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Updated 10.30.15

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Copyright 2014, 2015; all rights reserved.  Republishing by permission only.  Sharing on the other hand is most welcome.

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Golden Torch Cereus

That's me, with the Golden Torch!

Every garden, even if it is just a few containers on a patio, needs a few fabulous selections simply to delight the gardener.  Golden Torch Cereus fills that bill!  The flowers are simply stunning:  from the furry chocolate colored buds which, as they swell, resemble some kind of freakish sci-fi fantasy; and then as they open to dramatic flowers with a faint scent of almond extract and honey.  The large blooms open over an afternoon, remain open all night and for most of the next day, and by the following afternoon they fade.  But the spent flowers with their unusual furry fruit retain some visual interest.  

Some flowering cactus bloom just once a year; but this, as yet unnamed, selection of Golden Torch Cereus (Echinopsis spachiana) produces occasional flushes of flowers throughout the summer.  They need full sun to bloom the best; however, they are not fond of reflected heat from buildings, driveways, and roads—so be very careful with their placement.  (Reflected heat will scorch their columns which is unsightly, but they still seem to grow and flower just fine.)  They will grow and bloom in containers—so planting yours in a container until you fine tune its placement is a good idea.

Furry fluffy flower bud!

Even when not in bloom the spires are fabulous, with their golden spines on the crown, which gradually fade to a silvery sheen as the cactus grows.  While most selections of Golden Torch are not deemed frost resistant, this selection withstood temperatures down to 10F this past winter. This includes those planted in the ground and one that overwintered in a container outdoors.  I have several mature plants, here in zone 8, so I am certain they will survive outdoors in zone 8 and higher.  We receive an average of 29 inches of rain a year, all in the cool season, and have very good drainage.  In wetter and colder areas containers might be the preferred planting option so they can be moved to an appropriate spot over the winter.  

Buds are nearly ready to open!

Before considering adding Golden Torch Cereus to your collection, you must consider the thorns.  These thorns are treacherous, they are persistent, they don’t seem to decompose, and they will go right through Crocks and flip-fops and give you a good hard jab.  But if you have got to have them, you have got to have them.  

If the thorns haven’t scared you away, I occasionally have auctions for cuttings of this plant on Listia.com.  Listia is an on-line bartering platform.  It's  free, it works on points (called credits) and you can earn these credits a number of ways (by listing your own auctions, or by taking surveys--for instance).  If you have any question, please feel free to leave them in comments section below.  Here is a link to join that fixes you up with some free credits:  https://www.listia.com/signup/1729366.  Once you are a member you can check my auctions here: http://www.listia.com/profile/1729366.  If I do not currently have an auction listed, please feel free to contact me (on Listia or here in comments) about your interest and I would be happy to put an auction up for you, if I currently have extra pieces. (I can also list on E-bay, if that works better for you.) 

Fabulous flowers last about 24 hours.

Eventually, I am also going to experiment with germinating seeds from the mature fruit (which is said to be edible).  If I am successful and if you are patient this might be another way to obtain these beautiful plants. Unfortunately, seed grown plants are always genetically diverse, and they may not retain the cold hardiness of their parent. If I get the seeds to grow and prosper, I will add a comment to this post so you will know!

Fruit!

I  offer Golden Torch Cereus as column sections, with or without terminal buds; or as small offshoots with terminal buds. Be prepared for some very nasty thorns when opening the box. (They can draw blood!) Heavy leather gloves are recommended!  Gently press your gloved fingers against the side of the cactus—and if you find the spines are penetrating your gloves, try using some pieces of block Styrofoam packing material to move your cactus around.  Before planting, any recently cut ends will need to be allowed to callus.  Simply leave your cutting in a shady cool spot away from moisture and let it rest for a week or two.   The spines can pick up debris, much like giant Velcro, and that debris is hard to remove—so choose your spot carefully.  Additionally you do not want anyone to accidentally touch, step on, or fall on the cactus—the spines are mean!    

Bland and mushy.

Once the cut end(s) look and feel dry, carefully look your cutting over, for roots and growth buds.  If you find any roots growing along the middle of the column, you can ignore them if you like, or you can plant it flat with that end down—with any growth buds pointed up.  If you are going to plant your cactus vertically, any roots should go down into your potting soil, any growth points should be at the top.  When working with column pieces without growing points or roots, the most callused end is the best to plant in the soil.  (These pieces will eventually develop buds, most often two, which will each form a new column.) Offsets also need their cut ends to callus before planting.  Once they are callused they can be balanced or propped on the soil, with the cut end nestled down into the potting medium and the growth tip pointing up.  

Attractive even when not in bloom!

A few words on soil; my soil outside is nasty.  It is a mix of heavy adobe clay well sprinkled with lots of rock and gravel, as well as layers of grey volcanic ash and red volcanic dust and cinders.  My container planted specimen is growing in shredded paper!  Now, I don’t recommend you try to duplicate either of these settings.  For containers, any lean well drained potting mix ought to do just fine. You can add some garden soil and sand to what you have on hand, or purchase a ready-made cactus blend.  Outdoors, probably anything you have will be just fine, as long as it never gets soggy.  

Rooted  and established column section.

Water your Golden Torch Cereus very sparingly.  My mature plants receive no supplemental water at all.  The column pieces I planted in the ground this summer also received no supplemental water at all, and they bloomed and have been growing!  I started a piece of column, which was cut on both ends, in a container last winter.  It has two well established young columns now, and as it is in a very hot spot along a south facing wall—I do give it some additional water, when the soil is dry.  I haven’t noticed any signs of rot.  However, it is scorching and I do need to move it until the weather cools off.

If you have any questions, comments, or tips—please feel free to leave them in comments!

February in the Garden

Look closely and you will find flower buds slowly swelling on fruit trees, early spring bulbs, and some very brave perennials. Here in zone eight, February promises that spring is not too far away. It is still cool enough to plant bare root roses, fruit and nut trees, and other flowering ornamentals. Which, by the way, should be going on sale at bargain prices this month; because they need to get in the ground very soon. As the days lengthen, the bare root plants will begin to grow. If they are not able to sink new roots in soil, they will soon expend any stored energy. This will weaken the plants and some may not survive. Act fast and your bargain bare roots will thrive for many years.

It is time to Plant:

Bare Root Plants

When shopping for bare root plants make sure the stems, twigs, and buds look plump and healthy. Any growth of leaf or flower should be minimal, and it should not look wilted or limp. Bare root plants that look dry, are being stored indoors where it is warm, or that have extended much new growth are not really a bargain at any price. Dry or shriveled plants may already be dead. Those actively growing, especially if they are indoors where it is warm, may have already expended any reserves that they would need to adapt to their new environment. Plants that are plump looking but fully dormant or barely showing signs of spring life are the best bets.

Most bare root plants will come with labeling that lets you know what zones they are hardy in, whether they prefer sun, part sun, or shade, if they are drought tolerant or need regular irrigation, and other important information. Be sure to read the labels so you can plant them where they will get the exposure and the care or neglect they need. The labels should also explain how to care for your plants until you get them in the ground and that they need planted right away.

Most importantly, keep your bare root plants outside in a cool or cold spot, until you can get them into the ground, which needs to happen as soon as possible. If you must delay planting them a few days, open the packaging and check the saw dust or other packing material around the roots. It should be moist but not soggy. If it seems soggy, carefully poke some holes in the packaging, without damaging the roots, to allow air circulation. If the packaging material seems dry, poke a few holes in the bottom of the package for drainage, and slowly pour in enough water to moisten everything up.

The first opportunity you get, you will need to dig a hole for your new plant. Take the plant out of the package and carefully inspect the roots. If they are flexible and can be moved without breaking them, gently spread them out so you can get an idea of how wide and deep you should dig. You want the upper-most roots to end up about an inch or so under the surface of the soil, unless the package directs you otherwise. Soak the roots before planting by filling a bucket or other basin with cool to cold water and let them hydrate while you dig your hole.

Finished compost or planting mix can be sprinkled in the bottom of your hole and mixed into the dirt as you fill in around the roots. While many of our vegetables and annual flowers appreciate being planted over buried compost or manure--trees, shrubs, and woody perennials do not.

Careful attention to watering will be necessary for the first year for all bare root plants. They must grow new feeder roots to take up moisture and nutrients. Even drought tolerant varieties need to be watched closely through their first season. After a year or two you can expect them to behave just like any other well established plant in your garden.

Seeds to Start Now

Many seeds can be started indoors this month. Peppers, tomatoes, and gourds, which originated in warm climates benefit from a head start. They all need a warm bright spot to get going, and once they do start growing they may have to be moved up to larger containers before the weather turns warm enough to plant them outside. Those who can’t be bothered with setting up a special indoor germination area can always wait until spring and purchase starts; however, the best selection of varieties is available to those who start seeds.

Many cool season veggies can also be started now. Lettuce, broccoli, cabbage, sugar and snap peas, as well as scallions can be started in six packs—indoors or out, or direct seeded into containers or raised beds.

Don’t forget to plant some flowers! Pansies, violas, larkspur, and sweet peas can all get started right now. They can be planted just like the veggies mentioned above; in six packs, indoors or out, or directly into containers or raised beds.

Spring Planted Bulbs

Catalogs and garden centers are bursting with bulbs that can be planted from now through spring. These bulbs typically bloom from mid-summer through fall, depending on the variety. If you don’t already have gladiolas in your garden, now is the time to think about adding them. Glads are an old fashioned flower prized by gardeners over much of the world. They are available as heirlooms in many colors. There are also modern hybrids which include giant glads up to five feet tall, as well as miniatures and dwarfs that only reach two feet. (Tall varieties should be grown against a fence or wall, unless you are prepared to support them with stakes.) In climates colder than zone eight, Gladiolas must be dug up every fall and stored through the winter. Many people love them so much that they don’t mind this extra work. Unless you live above the snow line or in a particularly cold canyon, we can practically plant our glads and forget them. Our main gladiola worry is hungry gophers. If you have gophers you might want to protect your glads by planting them in buried hardware cloth baskets, in containers, or in raised beds. With nominal care, they will multiply year after year, providing plenty of flowers to attract humming birds and for arrangements.

Straw Bale Garden Report

I have read about straw bale gardens a number of times, and decided to give one a try. Last summer I bought a straw bale for the purpose (I also use them for mulch). I gave up on getting it moist enough to germinate seed after about a week. The straw seemed to resist soaking up water; and what little water it did soak up evaporated right away. I decided I would just let it sit there until fall and try again. (According to what I read, you are supposed to be able to use your straw bale garden for at least two years.) After our rains started in good, I went out to check on the bale. Low and behold, it had self sown parsnips germinating all over the top. I was pretty impressed. That is, until just recently; the middle of the straw bale as completely collapsed. Even though the cords are still in place, it now looks like a sprawled out “U” sprinkled with young parsnip seedlings. The straw in the middle section of the bale is almost completely decomposed. I am so glad I only tried this with one bale and didn’t really expect much from the experiment. Perhaps it works better in other climates, but this is one technique I am not going to recommend for here. (Hoopa, California)

[Note: I wrote this article Feb. '08, and I have since learned that I should have placed the bale so the stalks were perpendicular to the ground, not horizontal to the ground. It would have taken up water much more effectively this way. I am still no expert on straw bale gardening. Even if I had placed the bale more correctly, it may have rotted out in one season. However, this is a very good technique for areas with rocky or unworkable soil--so please don't be dissuade from trying it based on my lack of successful experience.]

Published in the Hoopa People News, 2.2008. Copyright Harvest McCampbell. Please feel free to share short excepts with a link back to the blog post. Written permission is required for any other use.