Showing posts with label Weeds. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Weeds. Show all posts

Saturday, July 18, 2015

Plantain: Indigenous Food and Medicine



Most modern popular literature about the low growing herb we often call plantain tends to focus on Plantago major (which is deemed to be of European origins), while ignoring the many species which are endemic to North America.  In this on-going endeavor to completely erase the native species from our minds, the claim is often set forth that the Indigenous People learned to use plantain from the colonists and settlers.  

In an effort to set the record straight, I have collected a little information on just a few of the indigenous plantains to share with you, along with a few of their traditional tribal uses.  There are actually very many native plantains found in North America, as well as in other parts of the world.  Plantago major is by no means the beginning and ending of the plantain story.  Hopefully this small collection of information will inspire some of you to do some research on the native plantains found in your areas or from your own homelands.  From there, you can search out how your own ancestors or the original inhabitants of your area used the plantains found near where you live.  More research, even on the Plantago species listed below will turn up a wealth of information not included here.

 “Plantain has been consumed as human food since prehistory. For example, archaeological recovery along California's Central Coast has demonstrated use of this species as a food since the Millingstone Horizon.” 1.    The Millingstone Horizon is an archaeological period in California, USA  dated from 6500 to 1500 BC. 2.

The following information is based on a search of on-line documents, and is not based on my experience with any of the species discussed.  My purpose in undertaking this little project was to expand the discussion on the medicinal and edible Plantago species of North America, and to encourage interested persons to do further research.  Before using any unfamiliar plant for any purpose one must be very sure of their identification, and they must be knowledgeable about possible toxic look-a-likes in their area.  Before ingesting or otherwise using any unfamiliar plants, double checking identification with a knowledgeable person who has long been in the habit of using them for your intended purpose is not only wise, it may save your life.  Don’t depend only on information on websites and in books to determine what use for food or medicine.  Be careful! 

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Selected North American native Plantago species: 

Plantago cordata

This indigenous plantain was primarily found in or near wetlands in the mid-west, great lakes, Appalachian, and East Coast areas of the US and up into Canada.  This lovely large Plantago was an important food and medicine plant of the Indigenous people wherever it was found.  It is currently a sought after ornamental plant for wetland type gardens.  It has become rare, threatened, endangered or absent throughout much of its former range.  It is sensitive to the loss and degradation of habitat, grazing, and climate change.

Range: 

Photo:

Ethnobotany: 

A discussion of the ethnobotany and economic uses of P. cordata, long reputed as a medicinal plant, is provided by Tessene (1969).”  Tessene, M. 1969. Systematic and ecological studies on Plantago cordata. Mich. Bot. 8: 72-104”  


“This species is of special significance because of its traditional use as a medicinal plant by native peoples of eastern North America.”   http://publications.gc.ca/collections/collection_2013/ec/CW69-14-143-2002-eng.pdf


Edible:
 “ . . .  the plant is edible and the best tasting of all the Missouri plantains.”  http://www.missouriplants.com/Others/Plantago_cordata_page.html 
(Also see the sources shared directly below under “Medicinal.”)

Medicinal: 

Heart-leaved Plantain has also been collected for use as food and as a medicinal herb (Tessene 1969, NatureServe 2006, Moerman 1998, Steyermark 1963), including in Canada (Jalava et al. 2009).”  http://www.mnr.gov.on.ca/stdprodconsume/groups/lr/@mnr/@species/documents/document/stdprod_075578.pdf 

In addition to being edible, it reportedly cures a wide range of ailments from snakebites to congested swellings and low scrofulous ulcers.” http://www.plantdelights.com/Plantago-cordata-for-sale/Buy-Water-Plantain/#sthash.Pf79UFWQ.dpuf

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Plantago maritima
Is one of the smaller statured indigenous plantains that you might miss if you don’t know what you are looking for.  It is endemic to coastal and cool temperature areas of the US and it is wide spread throughout Canada, where it is relished as a tasty wild edible.

Range: 

Photo: 


Ethnobotany: 

Alaska Native food eaten fresh or cooked and canned for winter use, from: Heller, Christine A. 1953, Edible and Poisonous Plants of Alaska. University of Alaska (p. 45)  http://herb.umd.umich.edu/herb/search.pl?searchstring=Plantago+maritima

Check the index in the book, “Ancient Pathways, Ancestral Knowledge,” by  Nancy Turner,  who covers uses of this plant.  The book may be available, when released, in the reference section of your local or university library.   http://www.amazon.com/Ancient-Pathways-Ancestral-Knowledge-Mcgill-Queens/dp/0773543805/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1404152839&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=%22Ancient+Pathways%2C+Ancestral+Knowledge%2C%E2%80%9D+by++Nancy+Turner



Edible:
 “ . . . young leaves are cooked as a spring green and occasionally sold in markets . . .”
Young leaves raw or cooked, seeds as flour extender:

Note:  
 It appears this plant is primarily used as a food rather than a medicine by both Indigenous people and settlers and their descendants.  No information on medicinal uses was found.

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Plantago patagonica
Of small to medium stature compared to other indigenous plantains, it sports fuzzy leaves, is adapted to a variety of climate zones, and was much used as a medicinal and cultural plant.

Range:

Photos:   

Ethnobotany:  

“. . . Plantago patagonia is the basis for a boy’s game called horse race. Boys would place bets and run as fast as they could for a certain amount of time in search of the longest flowering stem for this Plantago.  After the set amount of time had passed, the boy with the longest stem won and collected the bets.”

Also:  “A number of infrequent and several common plant Species on the Kiowa National Grassland have potentially important plant biochemicals.  Among the plant genera on our checklist with such a potential are: . . . Plantago . . . and others.”

Sixteen different ethnobotany uses (including medicinal) by various tribes listed here:  http://herb.umd.umich.edu/herb/search.pl?searchstring=Plantago+patagonica

Note: 
This plant does not seem to have been adopted into non-Native medicinal or edible usage.


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Plantago rugelii

 Rugel's plantain is native to much of the Central, Southern, Eastern and Northern areas of the US and it extends its territory up into the North Eastern areas of Canada.  It is often confused with Plantago major, to the extent that many photos of Plantago major are actually Plantago rugelii.  Fortunately, it seems that they can be used interchangeably as food and medicine—which is a good thing, because it  there is a lot of that, apparently, going on.  In many areas Plantago rugelii has larger populations and is more wide spread than the P. major of “White man’s foot” infamy.   In fact, this indigenous plant seems to have followed those foot prints across the country, it can now be found in many areas beyond its original range.  Check the link for Photos directly below to learn how to tell these plants apart.

Range: 

Photos: 

Ethnobotany:  

Iroquois Medical Botany - Page 211, gives a number of traditional uses, see Google Books Result:


Search on “Plantago rudelii” at the following link for Menominee medicinal uses:  http://herb.umd.umich.edu/

Medicinal use by Native people of the Miami and Potawatomi Peoples, page 50: http://www.csu.edu/cerc/researchreports/documents/AnEthnobotanyIndianaDunesNationalLakeshoreVolume2.pdf

Edible:
“The young leaves are palatable and can be eaten raw or cooked.”   http://eattheplanet.org/archives/1868

Medicinal:
Plantain seeds contain up to 30% mucilage which swells up in the gut, acting as a bulk laxative and soothing irritated membranes. Sometimes the seed husks are used without the seeds. A poultice of the fresh leaves is used to treat burns and inflammations.” 

Other:

Of Interest to Gardeners and Farmers, P. rugelii extract has been found to be toxic to root knot nematodes.  http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2586708/

Its use as a dye material is documented here:

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Plantago virginica

Slightly fuzzy medium sized to small species endemic through a wide area of the continental US. There are only eight states where it is not found, including a few each of the Northern, Desert, and Central States.  It is generally classified as a winter annual.  It grows during the cool moist season, sets seeds to grow the following year, and expires in summer’s heat.

Range:

Photos:

Ethnobotany: 

“The Kiowa tribe has used this plant in ceremonial garlands to confer health on the elders during dances.”  https://gobotany.newenglandwild.org/species/plantago/virginica/

“The whole plant with roots is boiled to make a tea which is given to children suffering from dysentery.”  ‘Catawba Herbals and Curative Practices,’ by Frank G. Speck.  http://www.jstor.org/stable/535753

Traditional Native uses are included in, ‘Baboquivari Mountain Plants: Identification, Ecology, and Ethnobotany,’  By Daniel F. Austin;  this book may be available in the reference section of your local or university library.   http://www.amazon.com/Baboquivari-Mountain-Plants-Identification-Ethnobotany/dp/0816528373

Edible:
“Though P. virginica has a hairy texture raw it yields readily when cooked and is a soft pleasant green.”  http://www.eattheweeds.com/newsletter-7-january-2014/

Medicinal:
“The leaves are reputed of superior efficacy on poisoned wounds and boils, and give promise of being a valuable nervine.”  The quote is found under the entry for Plantago virginica at the following page:   http://www.henriettes-herb.com/eclectic/cook/PLANTAGO_MAJOR.htm


~~~

White Man’s Footprint?

The historical basis for the moniker, “White Man’s Foot,” being attributed  to some plantains probably stems from the Latin roots of the botanical name for this group of plants--Plantago.   Plantago comes from “Planta,” which in Latin means “sole of the foot” and “ago” which is a suffix that means “sort of.”  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plantago
Another interpretation of the Latin can be found all over the Internet, “Plantago: from Latin planta meaning "foot print."  One example:  http://wisplants.uwsp.edu/scripts/detail.asp?SpCode=PLAMED 

A very few descendants of North American tribal people, and possibly even some tribes, have adopted this common name (or some derivative) for  Plantago major—English plantain.  We see, however, by the botanical name that European people have long associated the Plantago species with their own feet or footprints.  It is unlikely that very many Indigenous people would have come up with this name on their own, since they were using native Plantago species for long before they adopted the English language or had contact with English speaking people.   It is further very unlikely that very many Indigenous persons would have needed to learn uses of plantain from settlers, as Plantago species were wide spread and commonly used throughout North America prior to contact.   Please see the short entry below, as an example.

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Navajo Names for Plantain:
hastoi ci-ye'r--old man's queue:  . . .  Plantago argyrea
bi'hi-lja'?-deer's ears:  . . .  Plantago major

?alii: be'yi.c'oI:-urine spurter (diuretic):  . . .  Plantago major

If you are patient you could also find Navajo uses at this page:

Note:  All the tribes that use the plantains have names for the plants in their own languages.   Check with your Tribal Language Department or Language Specialist to find resources that may help find the traditional names for the plantains used in your area.  University ethnobotany collections are also a good source of information.

~~~

Sources cited in introduction:


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The End! 

End Notes:
If you find typos, broken links, or layout problems--please feel free to leave a comment.  I will fix them as soon as I can.

If you use any of the native plantains for food, medicine, or utility—and it isn’t closely guarded tribal intellectual property—please feel free to share.

Tuesday, May 26, 2015

Bird's foot trefoil vs the Strawberries



A lovely weed, commonly known as bird's foot trefoil, has invaded and is threatening to take over the bed and wipe out the strawberries at our local community garden.

Bird's foot trefoil does have a place in the garden. It is a fabulous nitrogen fixer, it makes a great warm season cover crop and it can be used with good effect as a beneficial ground cover in orchards and under tall crops such as corn. Its good qualities don't stop there! It is good for bees and it attracts beneficial insects, it can help stabilize slopes, and it is pretty to look at. However, it grows taller and much more vigorously than strawberries--so it is definitely a weed in regards to our strawberry bed.  Meanwhile, there are varieties that are much esteemed as wildflowers by the British.


"Eyebright and birdsfoot starred the grass, and already vivid green clumps of marjoram reached up to bloom." 

 John Fowles, speaking of English wildflowers in, 'The French Lieutenant's Woman.'


There are several varieties of bird's foot trefoil, the one in our garden produces 'stolons,' which are modified stems that the plant uses to spread, much like mint. When you pull the plant up, you will notice these white runners, which are just a little thicker than its stems and roots. Those are the stolons. If left in the ground or put, fresh, into the compost they will root and produce more plants. In addition, our lovely bird's food trefoil produces 'adventitious' roots--that is to say, the above ground stems can root. And as if all of that was not scary enough, after flowering it produces viable seed.

Once you learn to identify bird's foot trefoil, you will see that it is found in various places around the garden. Here is the good news. It is easy to pull, and it is easy to shake the dirt off the roots. (Please do your best to make sure the dirt stays in the garden beds. The more dirt we get into our rock pathways, the more weeds those pathways will grow.) It wilts quickly, and if pulled before it sets seed, it can be left to wilt on the edge of the rock pathways. If you have a big pile of it, spread it out, you might have to turn it over once or twice every few days before it is all thoroughly wilted. Once it is thoroughly wilted, as long as it doesn't contain viable seed, it makes an excellent addition to mulch and compost. Just remember to get it into the compost as soon as it is ready. Weeds temporarily wilting along the walk ways are all good. Leave them there too long, however, and they start breeding slugs, and after that, they start decomposing and turning into top soil. Which will encourage more weeds . . . 

If the bird's foot trefoil shows up in your own bed, or if you decide to be the strawberry hero, you are certainly welcome to bag up the trefoil and take it away. A word of caution is necessary of you are thinking of feeding it to animals. There are several species of bird's foot trefoil, some make good forage and fodder and some are considered toxic. Don't plan on feeding this to animals without taking samples to the County Agricultural Extension for proper identification first!

Meanwhile, our precious organic strawberries are imperiled, and our coordinator has her hands full with the food bank bed.

If the weather (and memory) agrees, we will try to get a photo of the bird's foot trefoil for you on Wednesday. It looks a bit like clover, with the familiar compound leaf made up of three leaflets . . . if you check the strawberry bed it is the most rampant plant in there.

Wednesday, May 20, 2015

Waxing Poetic about Garden Volunteers



This is a little note I was sharing with the community garden members where I currently garden, and I thought I would share it with you all as well . . . .


In the garden, wherever I (and others) have used the compost produced by our garden, there have been a bunch of interesting seedlings. At first I thought, hoped really, that they were chives. They had that grass like look of young Allium seedlings.

But, no, what looked like a single seed leaf, divided into two long narrow seed leaves, very typical of the Umbelliferae family, but other than that I had no idea what they were. They didn't really look like carrot seedlings, and I was hoping they were not hedge parsley, often called 'stick tights' or 'miners lice,' which spreads like wild fire. It is totally edible and choice, by the way, but not many people know it or know how to use it.

Meanwhile, the seedlings have been coming in thicker and thicker.

Today I noticed a seed coat still posed on the end of one of the seed leaves. I have been watching to see what the first true leaves look like in an attempt to identify it. That seed coat looked amazingly like a fennel seed, so picked it off and tasted it. Yep, fennel. And it is coming in, in some places, as thick as turf grass.

The good news, is that fennel seedlings are totally edible in soup or salad. They don't taste like much now, and they don't amount to much either. But if you can tolerate them a few weeks, they will be yummy and tender.
 
I can tell you exactly why we have it in our compost. Last year, I was waiting for the fennel seeds to become mature, and I was going to collect them for tea and flavoring--for myself and to possibly share with the food bank if people were interested. But then right before they were mature, someone cut the fennel down. And honestly, I did not investigate further.  But apparently they were put in the compost.

Fennel normally does not have this rampant kind of germination rate, at least not in California where most of my garden experience comes from. Many kinds of seeds, especially but not exclusively those of the Umbelliferae family, have built in dormancy, so that only a few will germinate at any one time, staggering the germination of the seeds over days, months, and even years. It is a built in survival mechanism, which allows at least some of the plants' off spring to survive all kinds of quirky weather changes. Dormancy, however, is built into the seeds at the end of their development. So, if you time it just right, by picking the seeds after they have developed viability, but before they have developed dormancy, you can end up with perfect germination as soon as everything else is in line--such as day length, moisture, and temperature. Apparently, someone caught the fennel, in the exact perfect zone.

For future reference, never ever put fully mature or nearly mature seed heads of any kind in the compost--unless you either want volunteers or you know for a fact that the compost is going to get hot enough to sterilize them. Making truly hot sterilizing compost is an art and a science and it takes a careful blend of materials and attention and work. Yes, it does sometimes happen by accident. But don't count on it.

All gardens get volunteers. Plants that show up, because the seed bearing parts rotted in place or in the compost. Some times the wind blows them in, or they arrive by birds, or perhaps even fairies.  Volunteers are one of the delights of gardening, as far as I am concerned. I love surprises in the garden, and they are often superior to hybrids in taste and color, and nearly always superior to hybrids in vigor and hardiness. Volunteers rock. But not necessarily when they are coming in like turf grass . . . .

Gardening, of course, is a learning experience.  Community gardening is even more so.  We learn together in community.  We learn about gardening and garden materials management not just from our own experience, but from the experience of other gardeners as well.  We learn also, grace; to take the good with the bad and to turn sow's ears into silk purses, to turn a plethora of fennel seedlings into beautiful food.  

Nature abhors bare soil.  Sun light degrades soil nutrients in bare soil, and rain water dissolves them and washes them away.  In nature, if there is enough light, enough warmth, enough soil, enough moisture--the ground is always covered with either green growing things or with a deep natural mulch.  Nature attempts to do the same thing in the garden.  Nature gives us weeds and volunteers to save our soil.  It's our job, in the garden, to accept nature's innate system  and manage it to work in our favor . . .

Sunday, July 08, 2012

Purslane

Omega 3 has been in the news a lot lately. You may have read about how it helps our health in many ways. Omega 3 is reported to improve brain function; reduce the incidence of inflammation, migraines, and heart attacks; lower blood pressure; and improve immune function.  That is a tall order for a single nutrient; but the reports all seem to have the research to back up their claims. While salmon and other cold water fish are the main dietary source of Omega 3; you can also grow your own right out in the garden.

Purslane is a rich source of Omega 3.  This is great news for those who don’t like fish and don’t want to take supplements. This easy to grow vegetable is also high in potassium and vitamin A and it has less than 30 calories a cup! This tasty and nutritious little plant has been used for food and health nearly all over the world since ancient times.

While many writers indicate that purslane first originated in northern Africa, the middle-east, or Asia; archeological evidence indicates purslane was also used for food right here in the United States as early as 3500 BC. Purslane has been used as a green vegetable and for its soothing properties everywhere it is found. This annual succulent produces tender tasty leaves, especially when it is young. These leaves range in size from about a nickel in the wild varieties up to a quarter in the domesticated types. They can be washed and tossed into salads, mixed vegetable dishes, soups, and casseroles. They have a pleasant tangy taste, reminiscent of French sorrel.  Some people like them enough to steam up a batch and serve it as a side dish.

The domesticated purslanes can also be used in stir fries and tempuras. Purslane dipped in batter and deep fried is a real treat. (Of course, deep frying pretty much negates the health benefits; but once in a while it can’t be too bad.) The larger leaved varieties are also easier to use for salads and cooking. Tiny little leaves and veggies are still the rage, but I honestly prefer something a little easier to work with. Bigger is sometimes better.

‘Tall Green’ or ‘Giant Purslane’ sport leaves up to two inches long, while ‘Golden’ has slightly smaller leaves at an inch and a half. Those pale greens and chartreuses are back in style. If you follow the trends, Golden Purslane will fit right in. Its leaves are even tangier than the darker green varieties, so there are more reasons to grow it than color alone. Whichever type of purslane you decide to grow, they are all fast and easy.

Purslane thrives in hot weather. It can be started any time from late spring, through the summer, and into the beginning of fall. Purslane’s tiny seeds take from ten to twenty days to germinate. Unlike many seeds, which we tuck into the soil, these guys need to be exposed to light. The easiest way to make sure they have what they need is to start them in six packs. Use moist, screened potting soil or seed starting medium. The fine texture is helpful because the tiny seeds are more likely to stay on the soil surface than they would be with courser medium. Sprinkle a few tiny seeds in each six pack cell, and place in a plastic bag in dappled shade until you have small seedlings. Check them every day, and if the soil starts to dry out, take the six pack out of the bag and place it in a shallow dish of water. The soil should easily soak the water up through the six pack drainage holes. This bottom watering will help keep the seeds in place on the soils surface. After draining for a few hours, don’t forget to tuck them back in their bag.

Once your plants are a half an inch or so high, you can remove them from the plastic bag. As soon as they reach two or three inches it is time to plant them out in the garden. They don’t need any extraordinary care. Water them frequently for the first week or two after you plant them out.  Once they are established they will happily stand some neglect.

You can begin picking leaves within a few weeks of planting them in the garden. Just pinch off as many as you want to use. Your plants will continue producing tender leaves for about fifty days, during which time the cultivated varieties will grow from 12 – 24 inches high. Pinch out any of the tiny flowers and seed pods that begin to form to prolong leaf production. Once the plants are bound and determined to flower you will need to decide if you want to pull them or let them set seed. Purslane can self sow; each plant is capable of producing thousands of seeds. It can become a weed under certain circumstances.

No-till, intensive, and well mulched gardens are unlikely to be infested with unwanted purslane. In fact, this year I have no purslane volunteers even though I have had it in my garden for many years. Between the mulch and the shade of other plants the seeds didn’t have the light they needed to grow. For the first time ever, I had to purchase some seeds and start them myself. If you till your garden and maintain exposed soil, purslane will happily colonize your walkways and any open space in your rows. Tilling can bring long dormant seeds to the surface, exposing the seeds to the light they need to grow.   

As a weed, purslane is really not that bad. There is no danger of it crowding out our native plants. It dies off with the first good frost, it prefers disturbed soil, and the seeds can’t take the shade of other plants. It can be weedy in the garden, but it is seldom seen where the soil has not been disturbed. Purslane is easy to pull or hoe, makes great compost, chickens and other livestock like it, and heck, we all ready know it’s nutritious and tasty. 

If you garden like I do, you will either need to purchase new seed each year, or save your own.  The seed capsules have pointed green covers over them that turn straw colored as the seed ripens. Once the seed has ripened the covers easily flick off and the seed can be shaken on to a paper plate or pie pan. Allow the seed to cure in the open air (in doors, away from dew and summer showers) for a few weeks before storing in a zip lock bag or other small container. The seed is tiny so take precautions against it being spilled. If it falls in the carpet you will never find it.  

Purslane starts are sometimes offered for sale through local nurseries and farmers markets. Seeds maybe available at well stocked seed counters, but you are more likely to find them through specialty seed catalogs. If you can’t find the varieties you want to try locally or in your favorite catalog, High Mowing Organic Seeds offers the ‘Tall Green’ and ‘Golden’ varieties: http://www.HighMowingSeeds.com  (802) 472-6174.






Published by The Hoopa People Newspaper 7/07.  Copyright Harvest McCampbell, all rights reserved.


Sources: 
Omega 3: http://2bnthewild.com/plants/H186.htm
Archeological evidence: http://ourworld.cs.com/Aoyuelac/Renee/Paper.pdf
Nutritional information:  http://www.nal.usda.gov/fnic/foodcomp/cgi-bin/list_nut_edit.pl
Photo Credit: Harvest McCampbell 7/07