Mystery in the Garden

Last summer I noticed that the edible landscape on one side of my yard was plagued with harlequin bugs and cucumber beetles, while the other side had very few pests. Over a number of weeks I tried to determine the reason this was happening. I was hoping that I could encourage whatever it was that was discouraging my pests.

First I examined what was growing on each side of the yard. I had a number of similar plants in both locations. The few differences didn’t seem to account for the disparity. Next I looked for predators. The side with the larger pest population actually had more spiders and lizards. That wasn’t really what I expected to find. Although it makes sense – the predators were living where the hunting was good. Then one morning the answer to the mystery came to me, completely by surprise.

I was standing on the front porch leaning against the rail, absent mindedly looking over the garden and making a mental list of things that needed done. Feeling kind of lazy, I wasn’t moving much, just enjoying the early morning air. That’s when a flock of birds swooped into my neighbors pine trees just for a moment. Next they dived down into the blackberry hedge that runs along the edge of the yard. From there they darted into the parsnips and Queen Anne’s lace that had gone to seed at the far edge of the garden, right in front of the blackberries. At least a dozen little birds began feasting on the seed heads that just moments ago I had been thinking of chopping down.

Every so often one of those little birds darted into my kale and cucumbers, quickly snapping up bugs and then darting back to the dense stalks and seed heads. The mystery was solved. The neighbor’s pine trees, the blackberry hedge, and the ripe seed heads all served to attract the birds into the garden. Birds need to feel safe from predators; the blackberries and pine trees provided cover. The abundant seeds located close to the hedge offered a ready source of food. Once they felt safe and were engaged in their feast, the movement of the dastardly insects was more than they could ignore. They quickly snapped them up. This accidental arrangement of trees, hedge, and food source - provided the birds with exactly what they needed. They were taking care of my pest problems, on one side of the yard. With some planning and patience we can all get the darting darlings to dine on our pests and leave us a little fertilizer in the bargain.

First let’s take a look at providing the cover birds need to feel welcome and safe in our gardens. Pine trees or other evergreens provide year round habitat. Tall varieties near the north east of the garden will help provide the safe retreat and staging area that birds favor, without overly shading your plants. You can situate new gardens to take advantage of existing trees in your or your neighbor’s yards. Or, if you are patient and have the room, trees can be planted that will provide this benefit.

When choosing pine trees you might want to keep a few additional uses in mind. Some pines offer edible seeds when they mature. Many have decorative cones that can be used for holiday wreathes and centerpieces. A few have long needles that can be used for weaving pine-needle baskets. Below are some choice varieties that provide edible seeds, attractive cones, and that have long needles when mature:

California Grey Pine (Pinus sabiniana) is native in our area and is the source of our pine nut beads. It has long grey-green needles and very heavy cones. You won’t want those cones falling on your buildings or vehicles so give some thought to where you plant it. Hardy to zone 6; it will thrive in our valleys and lower mountain elevations.

Chir Pine (Pinus roxburghii) is native to the foothills of the Himalayas. It has bright green 9-12 inch needles; light brown medium sized cones, and is hardy to zone eight.

Italian Stone Pine (Pinus pinea) provides the traditional pine nuts of European cuisine. The long needles are borne on upward reaching branches and the cones are brown, medium sized and very attractive. It is hardy to zone seven. (I have a young Italian Stone Pine in my yard in Hoopa, where it has lived happily for several years.)

Korean White Pine (Pinus koraiensis) has 2 – 4 inch needles, small brown cones, and is hardy to zone four.

Limber Pine (Pinus flexilis) is a native of western North American. It has long yellow-green cones, 3 inch long needles, and is hardy to zone four.

That’s it for the pine trees that produce edible nuts and are adaptable to our region. The next step in attracting the darling little bug snappers is to provide an understory or hedge of shrubs, vines, or bushes. If you have a conveniently located black berry patch or an existing hedge that’s great. I don’t recommend planting black berries. We have plenty of wild ones and there are lots of other choices; a couple that you might like are listed below:

Serviceberries (Amelancheir sp.) make nice hedges, shrubs or even small trees. They are hardy at all elevations in our area and they have lots to offer the gardener. In early spring they are covered with a profusion of white or pink flowers. The flowers are followed by abundant edible berries that range in color from blue, through purple, to almost red. Then in fall the leaves put on a show of their own, turning various shades of crimson. There are a number of varieties of serviceberry available. They offer a range of tart to sweet berries and different ripening dates. They also are available in a range of sizes from small to large shrubs, all the way up to a medium sized tree. Be sure to read the plant descriptions in your catalog or on the plant label so you get exactly the right plant for your needs.

If berries are not to your liking, you might want to explore the filbert and hazelnut offerings. These nuts all belong to the Corylus genus and will happily grow in our area. Corylus have what are known as imperfect flowers. That means they have two separate types of flowering structures. The female flowers are the ones that form the nuts, while the tassels or catkins bear the pollen. Corylus sport rather small flowers, but they appear in late winter when any new color or texture in the garden is a sight for sore eyes. They are also available in a range of sizes from small shrubs to large trees. Some varieties offer spring color in the form of yellow or red new growth. A very few varieties hang onto the new foliage colors for a good part of the summer, offering a respite from gardens that are overly green.

The last thing necessary to attract birds is a source of seeds near the shelter of the shrubs, hedges, and trees. Bird feeders installed on poles are a good option. You can keep stocked year around. You can also sow seed bearing plants that will provide your garden with color and texture through the seasons. Besides the parsnip and Queen Anne’s lace I have observed the birds feasting on the seeds of kale, onions, and mulleins in my yard. These plants are all easy to grow, and once you get them started and allow them to run to seed they will come back year after.

Check your local nursery or favorite catalog for plants and seeds. If you don’t find what you are looking for, Forest Farm carries all the trees and shrubs mentioned above. They also have a number of ornamental onions listed in their perennial section under “Allium.” There are a few mulleins listed in the same section under “Verbascum.” Plants are reasonably priced, and available on their web site: http://www.forestfarm.com They have an extensive catalog (its $5.00). Call (541) 846-7269 for more information.

Previously Published in the Hoopa People News

Copyright 2007, Harvest McCampbell

January in the Garden

January is traditionally the time of day dreaming and planning for gardeners young and old. Garden catalogs begin trickling in, tantalizing us with rediscovered heirlooms, as well as new and improved flowers and foods. Slowly we work through each catalog revising the list of everything we want, until we can be satisfied with what we really need, what we really have time and space for. But many a cold, rainy day is cheered with all the possibilities.

If you aren’t already inundated with gardening catalogs check out: http://www.mailordergardening.com/ You will find listings for more garden catalogs than you ever imagined. They are arranged by plant categories, such as trees, herbs and vegetables, bulbs, etc. When you click on the catalog name you are sent to a page that gives a description of the company as well as a link to their web site. Or you can simply jot down the phone numbers of the ones you think you would like and call to request a catalog. Parents and teachers will also want to check out their “Kids Garden” section. They have color pages, a game, and information on a small grant. If you don’t have Internet service, stop by our local library. Most libraries (including ours) now have public access computers available, and someone is usually available to give you a hand.

Planning for Peppers

Peppers do an outstanding job during our hot summers. However, our sometimes cool spring weather can get them off to a dismal start. They tend to be very slow growing when young; the cooler it is, the slower they grow. A little planning ahead will help you grow the best pepper crop ever. Peppers of all kinds can be started inside (in late January or early February) if you can provide a warm location and bright light. Peppers germinate best with soil temperatures between 75 and 80 degrees. You can get a good guestimate of indoor soil temperature by laying a room thermometer down on the surface where you will place your seeded six packs. It may take some experimenting to find the right location. You need the seeded six packs to stay warm at night, but not get over heated during the day when they are under lights. Many people resort to special heating mats made for starting seeds; others skip the seed starting step and purchase young plants ready to harden off and slip into the ground. If you want to grow your own peppers from seed, it is a good idea to find your spot or shop for a heating mat now. Most nurseries and garden catalogs keep them in stock, especially this time of year. Shop around; prices for exactly the same set up can vary greatly.

If you crave a rainbow of peppers in more variety than we usually find close to home, several catalogs come to mind. If you are interested in growing organic heirloom peppers, here are two great choices. Seeds of Change offers two pepper seedling collections—one of sweet peppers, the other of chile peppers, plus lots of choices in seeds. (888) 762-7333 / www.SeedsOfChange.com The Seed Savers Exchange offers seedlings of eight different heirlooms, two of which are hot, one mild, and the rest sweet. You can mix and match or order a sampler pack. And they have even more varieties as seed. (563) 382-5900 / www.SeedSavers.org If the latest hybrids are what you want; Burpee has in a dazzling variety, many available as seedlings or seeds. (800) 487-5530 / www.Burpee.com You can order on line from any of these companies, or call and request a catalog.

Once you get your seeds growing or your plants delivered, you will want to keep them in containers until all threat of frost has past. They will enjoy spending warm days outside, at first in the shade. Each day they should be exposed to more and more sun, until they are ready to stick their feet in the soil and thrive. Don’t forget to bring them in at night if it might get down to freezing. Save your peppers a sunny spot in the garden and they will reward you with a bountiful harvest.

Fresh Produce From the Garden

Winter’s crisp cold nights have an uncanny effect on many root vegetables, turning them sweeter than if they were grown in the summer. If you planted parsnips last spring; carrots, rutabagas, or turnips this fall—you can look forward to a special treat. Get out your shovel next time we get a break from the rain and use it to carefully loosen the soil around these delectable roots. Dig only as many as you will need for a few days; they will stay sweeter and fresher in the ground than they will in the fridge. You can use them in most any dish that comes to mind, such as home-made soups, casseroles, stir fries, or grated into salads. For a real treat try roasting up a batch of mixed veggies. Roasting brings out the flavors of fresh dug winter roots like nothing else. Whether you throw them in next to a pot roast or a nice fat hen; or if you just roast them up on their own.

Here is a technique that doesn’t require using parchment or any other fancy supplies. You can use a metal cookie sheet or a baking pan--whatever you happen to have on hand (and is safe for use under the broiler). Scrub up your veggies and cut them into pieces about two inches long by t an inch wide and a half inch thick. Brush your pan and the veggies with a thin coat of olive oil. (If you don’t have olive oil, use whatever vegetable oil you have on hand.) You can sprinkle them with a little salt and pepper or other seasoning if you like. Place your veggies in a single layer on your pan, and set your oven rack so the surface of the veggies will be about five inches from the heat. Turn the oven on to broil, and keep a close eye on the veggies. After about five minutes, as they begin to brown, you want to move them around on the pan so they don’t stick. Continue checking them every three to five minutes. As they develop a nice warm color, pull the pan from the oven, brush them with olive oil and flip them over. They will not all be ready to flip, nor will they all be ready to remove from the oven at the same time. But every time you turn or remove some, the rest can be shifted just a bit to keep them from sticking. If you don’t devour these delectable morsels as soon as they cool, you can serve them as a side dish; arrange them on lettuce or other greens, toss them with pasta, tuck them into a sandwich, or offer them as a finger food with a little dip.

However you serve them, the results are elegant. And it is so easy to prepare. It is best to stay in the kitchen for this job. You can use the time to toss a salad or set the table, you don’t want to let your poor roots get scorched.

Originally published by the Hoopa People Newspaper
Copyright 2007, Harvest McCampbell
https://www.facebook.com/harvest.mccampbell

December in the Garden

Published in the Hoopa People News, Copyright Harvest McCampbell, 2007

December in the Garden

Our old friend Jack Frost has knocked down all but the hardiest of our summer edibles, while clean-up chores call us outside on sunny days. The December garden is full of sweet surprises. Young tender acorn squash hide under wilted leaves. Succulent carrots and onions that eluded us in summer’s raucous abundance reveal themselves as other plants fade. The greatest delight may be cool season greens, self sown where they may, offering leaves both spicy and succulent to brighten up winter plates. While some folks retire from gardening over the rainy season, many vegetables thrive right now. The garden grows at a much slower pace during our cool misty weather, but it also takes much less work. Here’s some information to get you growing!

It’s Time to Plant

From Seed: Many root vegetables do just fine with a December sowing. Raised beds or large containers are a good idea. They allow for drainage and can be a deterrent for gophers. If gophers aren’t a problem, you can choose the sunniest and best drained spot you can spare. Very minimal soil preparation is all that is required. (Care should be taken not to overwork soil in the rainy season—too much mucking around can cause compaction.) Pulling back mulch, removing any weeds or spent plants, and raking the surface to form a rough surface is all that is necessary. Carrots, turnips, scallions, and radishes of all kinds can be broadcast on to the prepared beds or containers. You can cover them with a sprinkling of finished compost if you like, or just let the next rain water the seeds into their bed.

From Starts: Look for scallions, lettuce, corn salad, colorful kales and ornamental cabbage. Lettuce starts are often available in fancy colors and leaf shapes. They can dress up your flower beds as well as your salads. Kale, and ornamental cabbage, as well as the diminutive corn salad will be equally happy in the vegetable garden or the flower bed. If you have a hankering for winter flowers look for hellebores, snapdragons, calendula, and violas of all kinds. Those with flower buds will bloom the soonest.

Other Chores

Mulch: Coarse textured mulch can be a boon to garden beds for several reasons. Bare unprotected soil is subject to erosion and compaction during our rainy winters. A course layer of mulch helps hold the soil in place, while reducing the force of the rain drops. Additionally, it makes a great winter worm habitat. Worms are the work horses of the garden. They recycle organic matter, improve soil texture and tilth, they foster nitrogen fixing bacteria, and their digestive systems reduce the presence of harmful micro-organisms. Worms breathe air and can drown in water soaked soil. A nice coarse mulch that has plenty of air spaces is just what worms need to survive our rainy seasons.

Garden Clean Up: Instead of hauling away all of last summer’s garden debris, think coarse mulch! If you are patient a good pair of garden clippers can be used to reduce stems, vines, large leaves, and twigs into pieces from two to four inches in size. Pile the material up to four inches deep on any unused beds or around perennials. (If any of your plants were diseased or harbored pests, their remains would be better off in the compost pile than on your garden beds.) You should keep mulch a few inches away from the trunks of trees and shrubs, as well as the stems of perennials to reduce the possibility of fungus attacking your living plants. Other than that, all the material from last summer’s garden will work hard to protect and improve the soil for next year’s bountiful harvests.

Gardening News

“Orchids, a Practical Guide to Care and Cultivation,” has arrived--hot off the press, just in time for the winter gift giving season. If you are looking for a great gift for the gardener who has everything, this might just be the ticket. Not only is it practical, the flower photos are amazing. Nearly every type of cultivated orchid is included, as well as some that are simply wild. Each entry contains the scientific name, origins, temperature range, light and feeding needs, as well as their flowering season. (By making careful choices you could have orchids in bloom all year.) You will also find a large number of full color photos, showing a selection of cultivated varieties for each genus discussed. Did I happen to mention that the flower photos are amazing? Even if you never plan to grow an orchid you will enjoy browsing through this book. If you have always wanted to grow orchids, whether just a few in a bright room--or lots in a modern green house, the practical aspects of this book will get you on your way. “Orchids, a Practical Guide to Care and Cultivation,” Michael Tibbs, Ball Publishing, ISBN 978-1-883052-59-1

Gifts for Gardeners

Amaryllis bulbs make a great gift, especially for those who can’t get out in the garden during the winter months. These large bulbs are easy to care for and produce plants up to 20 inches tall with blooms up to four inches across in about seven weeks from planting. These large flowers are impressive, and they are available in a number of colors and forms. (If Aunty likes the one you get her this year, next year you can get her one in a different color!) Check them out at: http://www.amaryllis.com/ They can be ordered on-line; however, you will likely find them available out on the coast. Many nurseries offer already potted Amaryllis bulbs this time of year. Just remember to keep these beauties inside until all danger of frost has past. The foliage will begin to fade in late summer, when you should stop watering them and let them rest for at least six weeks. Store them in a cool dry place, where they won’t be subjected to frost or rodents. You can begin watering them again anytime after October and have blooms in time for next year’s holidays!

Garden ornaments, statuary, elegant bird feeders, as well as practical supplies and tools can be found at the Gardener’s Supply Company. They not only carry classy items you won’t find anywhere else, a portion of every purchase goes to support their grants and awards programs. The focus of these programs is to provide funds and awards to non-profit organizations which encourage communities to develop sustainable, ecologically sound gardening practices. Check out their web site to shop on-line www.gardeners.com. You will find more information on gardening grants and awards on their “Community Page.” You can also request a catalog or more information by calling 1-888-833-1412.