Fall Flowers

Summers heat has begun to subside and our days are turning mild and breezy. Once again it is a joy to be out in the garden among the flowers and bees while the sun warms work weary shoulders. Many of our favorite blooms are fading to seed. But there are still some garden stars to enjoy through the months of fall. Here are some ideas for both fussy gardeners and those who like to take it easy.

One of my farorite plants for autumn is the lovely and delicate California Fuchsia. They are also known as Zauchneria and Epilobium. But no matter what you call them, their firecracker flowers will decorate your borders from mid summer through mid-fall. They are perennials in most temperate parts of Northern CA (hardy to zone 7). You just have to plant them once and they will grace your landscape for years to come. These fabulous little flowers bloom in shades of red and orange, depending on the variety you choose. Their narrow tubular flowers are perfect for hummingbirds, who definitely love the nectar. If you plant blooming specimens now, those glitter feathered birds may visit your yard well into fall.

California Fuchsia is attractive in the garden, even when not in bloom. There are varieties that are used as ground covers and in hanging baskets. These creepers come with fuzzy or smooth, narrow, grey or green leaves. They look graceful spilling out of a container or over a ledge. I am particularly found of the grey leaved types. They add color and texture to the landscape even when they are out of bloom. There are other varieties that form what are called “sub-shrubs.” These plants grow up to 3 feet tall, depending on the variety. The taller specimens deserve a place in the middle of the border. There are varieties that range up to about 2 feet tall that look great inter-planted with roses. They can serve to hide the roses stubby ankles and knees. Just make sure you choose colors that harmonize in a way that pleases your eye. Read plant labels or catalog descriptions thoroughly, to be sure you choose plants that are right for the spot you have in mind.

Zauchnaria, as I am in the habit of calling it, can be planted anytime now through spring. If water is a problem in your area, plant in the fall after the rains have begun. (You may not get flowers this year if you have to wait.) By summer this hardy native plant will have sunk its roots deep enough to withstand most of what summer can dish out. The soil needs no special preparation and they are bothered by few pests. (The slugs don’t even bother the ones in my yard.) Good drainage is helpful if you can provide it. In the summer they prefer to be a little on the dry side, so consider the moisture needs of other near by plants when choosing Zauchnaria’s special spot. They love the sun, so give them plenty of exposure. If your plants get a little raggedy looking over the winter try to wait until the end of February before giving them a bit of a hair cut. That way you will preserve as many healthy stems as possible and you are sure to get a repeat performance of the autumn fireworks next year.

Another great fall bloomer hardy in our area is Mexican Bush Sage (Salvia leucantha). This sage eventually forms a fragrant shrub up to four feet tall and wide. The stems and stalks have a purple cast, and are covered with soft grey fuzz. The flower bracts are a deep purple, also covered with that same soft fuzz. The flowers themselves come in purple or white, depending on the variety. They also attract hummingbirds and tend to begin their show in late summer or early fall. In mild weather they may continue blooming through early winter. The leaves are narrow, long, crinkled, and a pleasant shade of green. Mexican Bush Sage is hardy to zone 8. It has few pests, it is drought tolerant, and it loves the sun. Much like California Fuchsia, it is not picky about soil, other than needing good drainage. While this plant is hardy in our area, you don’t often see it planted. So if you want something a little different look for Mexican Bush Sage.

Gaura, bee blossom, butterfly flower, or wand flower (Gaura lindheimeri) makes a great companion to either Mexican Bush Sage or California Fuchsia. It is a long lived perennial flower with slim flowering “wands” that grow from 2 – 3 feet tall. Many varieties have foliage and stems marked with maroon, making the plants colorful whether they have flowers or not. Gaura begins blooming in late summer and will continue throughout fall. Plants will live in sun or shade, but will flower best in a sunny spot. They are drought tolerant, have few pests, and the flowers range from white to pink, depending on the variety you choose. If you live in an area that gets a hard frost or snow, Gaura is likely to die back to the ground in winter. But rest assured, as soon as spring comes around the corner, your Gaura will come back to life.

If you are the “take it easy type,” are in a hurry for some fall flowers, and are on a budget, here’s a little secret you can use right now. There are two very inexpensive types of seeds you can purchase, and simply throw on the ground in-between your other plants and have flowers in about 6 weeks. This little trick will only work in areas that you water. It is fun to try this with your kids, and it might even make a nice class project. But you need to do it right away. Once it starts raining it will be to late to try this year.

This little trick starts at the feed store, or the bulk bins at the grocery or health food store. Look for the small black sunflower seeds they sell to feed pets, and also look for raw whole buckwheat. (You don’t want roasted buckwheat groats – they won’t grow.) Buy a quarter pound or so of each, and just toss them around where you would like them to grow. The sunflowers grow up to about 3 feet tall, and have flowers from 3 – 6 inches across. Some plants will have multiple flower heads blooming one at a time. And you should have your first flower buds in 4 – 6 weeks. They are really fast and fun. The buck wheat makes an attractive spreading plant with 2 – 3 inch heart shaped leaves and interesting jointed stems. They will begin blooming in about a month of being sown, when they are only 6 – 8 inches tall. They make sweet smelling crescents from an inch to 3 inches long, full of tiny white flowers. The plants will continue to grow until frost, forming a loose open network of arching stems and flowers. (Both the sunflowers and the buckwheat will need replanted next year, if you want a repeat performance.) Hurry, fall seems to be coming early this year.

If your local nursery doesn’t carry the perennials listed above here are some mail order sources: Forest Farm, http://www.forestfarm.com/ (541) 846-7269 They have several varieties of Gaura and Zauchnaria.
Mountain Valley Growers, http://www.mountainvalleygrowers.com/ (539) 339-2775 They have one variety each of Zauchnaria and Gaura as well as two types of Mexican Bush Sage.

Next time we will be getting ready to grow some of the new colorful carrots for a cool fall crop. Meanwhile, you can probably find me out in the garden, Digging the Dirt.


Copyright 2006 Harvest McCampbell, from my column "Digging the Dirt," published in The Hoopa Valley People Newspaper, Sept. 5, 2006. Posted here with permission.
http://www.hoopa-nsn.gov/enterprises/newspaper.htm

Saving Seed

Saving your own seed can be as easy as scooping out a melon and reserving a portion of the seeds to dry. Not only is it easy, it’s also free, and it’s a great educational tool for teaching children about life cycles, seasons, and self reliance. When you save your own seeds to grow for the following year, you get to select the plants that exhibit the traits you desire. If you like your produce bigger, earlier, smaller, more colorful, or any other criteria - the ones that suit your requirements are the ones you save seed from. This year the Red Russian Kale I am saving seeds from were resistant to aphids. Pest resistance is something plants can pass on to their off spring. And it’s not always something seed farms select when choosing seed to offer for sale.

Those who know, generally claim that it takes about 3 years of saving a certain strain of seed in a given environment for the plants to acclimate. This often seems to be true in my own garden. After the second or third year the seed I save myself tends to out perform those award winning hybrids. Of course, I am selecting by my own standards – but that is something every gardener can do.

Saving seed is very cost effective. Your one chosen seed squash, tomato, or Giant Red Mustard plant will produce more seed than you can use, possibly in your life time. Seeds don’t live forever, so it is a good idea to save fresh seed each year. The extra seed can be shared with family and friends as well as other gardeners. Some types of seed are edible such as your pumpkin and squash seed. And some, such as radish, mustard, and arugula can be used to grow tasty sprouts for winter time salads.

If you have a little Internet savvy you can trade your extra seeds with other seed saving enthusiasts. One way to find information on seed swaps is on a search of Google Blogs: http://www.blogger.com/ Try searches on “Seed Swaps,” “Seed Exchanges,” “Seed Trades,” or even “Free Seeds.” Yahoo also hosts some groups that hold swaps by mail. Try those same searches on: http://groups.yahoo.com/ (If you don’t have a computer at home, check with your local library. They often have computers available and they may even have someone to help you learn how to use them. Alternatively some libraries may stock magazines that host or advertise seed exchanges.) Last winter I arranged so many seed swaps that it may take me ten years to grow all the seeds I received – if the seeds even live that long. So I am temporarily retired from seed swapping. Instead I am giving lots of seed away.

The very easiest seed to save are from melons, pumpkins, tomatoes, and winter squash, which we normally use when fully ripe. You can save seed from the ones your grow, or even the ones you purchase. Simply separate seeds from the pulp, rinse them in a handy kitchen strainer, and lay them out on paper towels to dry. When fully dry all these seeds except watermelon should snap in half rather than bend. Watermelon seeds may not snap when dry but they should not bend. Once dry you can store them in mason jars or zip lock bags. Be sure to label each jar or bag – one squash seed pretty much looks like the next. And you will probably want to know what you are planting next spring. However, not all seeds will grow plants identical to the veggies they came from. The offspring of hybrids often show a lot of genetic diversity. And seed saved from the garden will occasionally cross pollinate. I have this really yummy green striped crook neck squash that taste a bit of cucumber. It is my very favorite squash this year, and it is definitely a cross. But that is half the fun of saving your own seed. (If you don’t want crosses you can use row covers to keep out the bees and hand pollinate. For information on hand pollination see: http://www.pollinator.com/hand_pollination.htm )

To save seed from your summer squash and cucumbers you will need to let one cucumber and one squash from each plant get huge, old, and hard. After the first frost, pick it, split it, and remove the seeds to dry. You might need an axe to open some of the huge old zucchinis. But you will get seeds enough to share with everyone you know. Once you get at the seeds let them dry and store as above.

Most of your other vegetables will need to bolt before you can save seed. You must let them grow tall and rangy. After the flowers fade, seed heads or pods will develop. These must be allowed to dry on the plant. Then the stems can be cut, the seed heads placed in a newspaper lined box, or a brown paper bag, and moved to the garage or other dry place until they are crisp to the touch. You can save the seeds in their pods if you have room. Or you can open the pods and carefully separate the chaff from the seeds. (Old skills from past bad habits may serve you well in this little task.) It is a good idea to let the seeds dry a bit longer once separated, but then they can be stored as all the seeds above.

I store my seeds in zip lock bags in a light weight lidded plastic container. (It is a Rubbermaid index card file box.) Some people buy or reuse desiccant packages with their stored seed. I think this is more important with seeds stored in glass containers, because glass can encourage condensation. However desiccant packages can be saved, dried in the sun, and reused in your seed containers. Pepperwood leaves, hot peppers, and diatomaceous earth can help protect your seed from insect damage. Diatomaceous earth is available from many larger health food stores and some garden supply companies. Make sure not to buy the DE sold for swimming pool filters as it is not as effective at pest control. You only need a pinch or so in each seed package. Just enough to lightly coat each seed.

All righty, that’s all you need to know to get started! Below you will find sources of more information should you want to become an expert seed saver:

Ask your book store or library for:
Save Your Own Seed, By Lawrence D. Hill, The Henry Doubleday Research Association.
Seed to Seed, by Suzanne Ashworth, Chelsea Green Publishing.

On the Internet:
http://theseedsite.co.uk/
http://tomclothier.hort.net/page28.html


Stay tuned – next time we will be taking a look at Zaushneria and other favorites for autumn bloom. Until then, you can probably find me out in the garden, Digging the Dirt.


Copyright 2006 Harvest McCampbell, from my column "Digging the Dirt," published in The Hoopa Valley People Newspaper, August 29, 2006. Posted here with permission.

Bodacious Broccoli

As long as your ground doesn’t freeze solid and you don’t have a thick blanket of snow on the ground, you can eat fresh out of your garden all year . Broccoli contributes to the diversity of foods you can grow at home during the cold months. Even if you can’t garden all year, broccoli can stretch your season. It can be started now for a fall crop, and it can be set out as soon as the ground can be worked for an early spring crop. It is perfect to plant most varieties now for fall and through the end of October for late winter. Once established, most varieties can take a pretty hard frost and sprinkling of snow. And broccoli is available in a diversity of forms.

For those fond of serving broccoli raw as an appetizer or in salads the new (and not so new) colored broccoli’s will add a little excitement to your dinner table. I can just hear it now. “Eat your broccoli, Dear.” “But Mom, its purple.” “It’s ok Dear, it’s supposed to be purple.” Broccoli is available in not just green and purple, but also white, red, and almost blue. And while the kids may not like it, and the cousins may not like it, it will certainly impress your friends. If your prefer your broccoli cooked, except for the white broccoli, it all cooks up green. However, the colored broccolis are just as easy to grow, so even if you don’t like it raw, it might be fun to experiment in the garden.

Sprouting broccoli is a favorite in many gardens. It produces a central head like most other broccoli plants. But when that head is cut the plants continue to produce smaller heads over a long time period. Some varieties will produce small heads for approximately 6 weeks, while others may produce for many months.

If you have a small family there are varieties of broccoli just for you. Some of them are standard forms that produce one head per plant. Others are the sprouting broccoli types mentioned above and will produce several small heads over a few weeks or months. Look for Broccoli Kabuki for small plants and Packman for small early heads on almost full sized plants.

The tiniest broccoli heads are found on Raab or Rapini. These small heads are cut and cooked with a few of the top leaves and are ready for harvest in 5 – 8 weeks from planting. These tasty treats have a bit of a warm mustard flavor and they are great in soups and stir fry. If you like a bit of heat they can also be munched raw in salads, with dip, or straight from the garden.

New to my garden this year is Spigariello, a form of broccoli grown for its leaves. Unlike broad leaved broccoli this one sports narrow frilly leaves that are its main attraction. Foodies everywhere know that little fancy leaves are the fashionable thing when it comes to green salads, aspics, and broth based soups. However, Spigariello also adds a nice note to macaroni and potato salad, and anywhere you need a little flare. The young tender leaves can be used raw, while the older leaves are best for cooked dishes.

When ordering seeds or purchasing broccoli plants be sure to read the entire plant description or seed package. Some types are not cold hardy and must be grown in the warmer months. Some types are not adapted to heat. Be sure you purchase the types of broccoli you want for the season they will be planted.

Broccoli is easy to grow from seed. Seeds need only be barely covered with soil and will usually germinate in a week to ten days. They do need to be kept evenly moist to start. Sometimes that is easier to accomplish in six packs full of potting soil than out in the garden. Broccoli is considered a heavy feeder, so choose the best soil you have available, and then keep it mulched at least until the weather cools down. Broccoli does not need full sun all day, but it does need to get some sun, and it won’t do well in deep shade. Young plants can be tucked in the ground in-between squash or pepper plants now, as long as you amend their planting holes with plenty of organic matter.

The young plants will benefit from the shade and camouflage from pests that the older plants provide. By the time the frost kills off the summer veggies, the broccoli will be ready to take over and thrive.

Young broccoli plants are definitely bothered by slugs and snails. It is a good idea to go out with a flash light at night or early in the morning for a few days before and after you plant your young broccoli. If you arm yourself with a zip-lock bag and a glove (or another recycled plastic bag) you can hand pick all those hungry critters and dispose of them, before they dispose of your little plants. Cabbage worms can also be a big problem. We will be talking about all the ways to organically control cabbage worms in an up-coming article. Meanwhile, try to check your plants every few days. Squish any little green worms you see and knock off any bug eggs and your plants should be just fine.

All the Broccoli varieties are members of the very nutritious Brassica family. And broccoli is very diet friendly. A full cup has only 31 calories! It is high in calcium, potassium, vitamin C, folate, vitamin K, beta-carotene, and lutein. That is a pretty great package. But that is not all. Broccoli is considered a powerful cancer preventative, as well as helpful for a number of other health problems including diabetes, hypertension, and heart disease. For more information see: http://mann.broccoli.com/institute/health_articles.htm

Broccoli is lots of fun in the kitchen. It can be steamed for an easy side dish. Serve steamed broccoli as is, or chop it up and serve over a baked potato, toast, or pasta with a sprinkling of olive oil, some gravy, or grated cheese. Cooked broccoli can be whizzed up in the food processor and used as a base for hot or cold soups. The puree can be diluted, if desired, with broth or milk, and other cooked or raw veggies can be added as well as cooked pasta, rice, or whatever suits your fancy. Broccoli can also be added to casseroles, soup, salads – pretty much anything you are cooking – except maybe desert. And it looks and tastes great as part of a platter of fresh veggies to go with ranch dip. So grow lots of colors and have fun!


Sources:

Nichols Garden Nursery offers seeds of a number of kinds of broccoli, including Raab, Spigariello and some of the more standard types. You can contact them by phone or through their web site: (800)422-3985 http://www.nicholsgardennursery.com/

Richters Herbs has a deep blue-green Calabrese broccoli, as well as an old fashioned Italian sprouting broccoli. (905) 640-6677 http://www.Richters.com

Johnny’s Selected Seed offers Packman and Raab, as well as standard and sprouting broccoli. (877) 564-6697 http://www.Johnnyseeds.com

Thompson and Morgan carry the mini Kabuki Broccoli, various colored varieties, and a large number of standard and sprouting types. (800) 274-7333 http://www.thompson-morgan.com


Other Fall and Winter Veggies:

Fennel:
http://harvestsgardeningsecrets.blogspot.com/2006/01/florence-fennel-real-food.html

Giant Red Japanese Mustard:
http://harvestsgardeningsecrets.blogspot.com/2006/03/giant-red-japanese-mustard.html

Kale:
http://harvestsgardeningsecrets.blogspot.com/2006/02/kindly-kale.html

Kohlrabi
http://harvestsgardeningsecrets.blogspot.com/2006/09/knobby-kohlrabi.html

Parsnips:
http://harvestsgardeningsecrets.blogspot.com/2006/04/plentiful-parsnips.html



Next time we will be exploring saving seeds, and the home seed bank. (You can arrange to trade for almost any seed you would like to try, with your own home saved seeds!) Until then, you can find me out in the garden, Digging the Dirt.

Copyright 2006 Harvest McCampbell, from my column "Digging the Dirt," published in The Hoopa Valley People Newspaper, August 22, 2006. Posted here with permission.